"The great red-walled Kremlin is the core of Moscow, and of all Russia. In front of Resurrection Gate, the entrance to Red Square, is the zero-kilometer mark by which all distances are measured. The enormous gate and its tiny companion, an 18th-century chapel that looks like a child's playhouse, are recent restorations: The originals were destroyed so that Stalin could drive his tanks into the square for parades."

(Text from and photograph shot on assignment for, but not published in, "Moscow Rising," April 1999, National Geographic Traveler magazine)