  ________________      _______
/FFFFFFFFFFFFFFFF\    |FFFFFFF\
|FFFFFFFFFFFFFFFF|     \|FFFFF|
|FFFFF/----------/      |FFFFF|
|FFFFF|                 |FFFFF|
|FFFFF|                 |FFFFF|
|FFFFF|__________       |FFFFF|
|FFFFFFFFFFFFFFFF\      |FFFFF|
|FFFFFFFFFFFFFFFF|      |FFFFF|
|FFFFF/----------/      |FFFFF|
|FFFFF|                 |FFFFF|
|FFFFF|                 |FFFFF|
|FFFFF|                 |FFFFF|
|FFFFF|                 |FFFFF|
\-----/                 \-----/

    *************************************************
    *                                               *
    *       F-1 WORLD GRAND PRIX WALKTHROUGH        *
    *   Written by Jordan Stopciati (superstar64)   *
    *       VERSION 0.9 revised on 09/20/2001       *
    *                                               *
    *************************************************

===================
TABLE OF CONTENTS
===================

1. Legal Stuff
2. Modes of Play
3. A typical Formula One race
4. Race Setup
5. Teams and Drivers
6. Circuits
7. Strategies
8. Challenge Mode
9. End

=========
UPDATES
=========

V0.9 - September 20, 2001
First version, contains most of the stuff I want to put in. In the next 
version coming soon, I expect to have:
   * Challenge mode strategies
Not much to expect of myself, is it? There's a lot more to come, so keep 
your eyes peeled for updates. If you have anything to add, just drop me an 
e-mail at:
                      js_sstar64@hotmail.com

==============
1. LEGAL STUFF
==============

There are lots people out there who are just willing to take any good FAQ 
that they can find, rip it off, and do all sorts of weird and wonderful 
things with it. Not if I can't help it. Here's what I ask before you even 
start reading this guide, it is very short, very sweet, and very polite. I 
don't ask much from you.

This game walkthrough is supplied to you free of charge. You most likely 
have to pay for Internet access but they are giving you access to this 
information - which I supply to you for no charge. I make absolutely no 
money writing video game guides, and have no payments to make. Guide writing 
is not how I make a living. Therefore, I expect that you do not take this 
guide and sell it for a fee unless I give explicit permission. Which I most 
likely will never do.

Please do not use any of this information if you are writing a game guide 
for this game unless you give me credit. There are no exceptions to this. I 
will find out if you rip me off, and you can be sued for it. I can easily 
use that money that I win for a lot of things. What am I talking about? 
Something called "plagiarism". It is a fact that I am under eighteen (yeah, 
I write FAQs and I'm not eighteen yet. Your point?). It is fiction that I 
can not sue you. That is nonsense.

Myself, GameFAQs, or any other website that publishes this FAQ can not be 
held responsible for any injury, small or large, that seems to be coming 
from this FAQ. I can not be held responsible for any of these unsolicited or 
solicited events. (this is just a small sample)
- Damaged F-1 World Grand Prix game
- Damaged video game system
- Damaged reputation
- Damaged house(s)
- Damaged privilege(s)
- Damaged body part(s)
- Damaged land area(s)

================
2. MODES OF PLAY
================

There are five modes of play in F-1 World Grand Prix:

Exhibition: Go against 21 other drivers in a race. You can change the 
settings and have a four-lap sprint or as much as the full race distance. 
You can start from first and get a head start or try to navigate your way 
through the pack from twenty-second, among other things. Pick any track, any 
driver, and you're ready to go on any of the 1997 Formula 1 tracks!

Grand Prix: Go through the seventeen races of the 1997 Formula 1 World 
Championship. You score points if you finish in the top six of a race (ten 
for first place down to one point for sixth place.) If you can finish the 
season with the most points, you win the championship and become the 
greatest driver in the world (well, almost...you might be, but you might 
not.)

Challenge: You've been stuck in a pretty good, or bad, situation from the 
1997 situation and you'd better make the most of it. You start with three 
situations in three categories: Offense, Defense, and Trouble. You score 
points for making merit out of each situation. Doing well on each challenge 
will open up the next challenge in that category.

Time Trial: Take a test drive on any one of the seventeen Grand Prix tracks. 
It's just you, and your ghost (which appears if you set a new best time). 
Try to put in the best time you can - it works when you start getting into 
Grand Prix and Challenge modes - then you have to know the tracks pretty 
well if you wish to succeed.

2 Player - Go head-to-head with a friend, an enemy, or anyone that you want 
to go head-to-head with. It's just you and the other guy. Pick any driver, 
any track, and you're ready to go. There isn't much other stuff to do - just 
try to beat that other guy and you shouldn't have to do much anything else 
(other than stop for fuel, etc.)

===========================
3. A TYPICAL FORMULA 1 RACE
===========================

The race all starts with the Friday practice session. In this session, you 
receive four laps in Rookie or Professional difficulty, up to twenty on 
Champion. You are not obligated to use all these laps, and they have no 
effect on your starting race position. Generally, times in this session are 
half a second slower than the qualifying pace.

You get another practice session on Saturday, which is also limited to four 
laps in Rookie and Professional, twenty in Champion. This is the last 
opportunity you're going to get to pick a set-up before the moment of truth: 
qualifying. This will not count towards your position in the race, however.

Then, the moment of truth: qualifying. In actual F1, a one-hour session is 
allotted, and you get twelve laps (including your in and out of pit laps.) 
Well, the only thing you'll get here is twelve laps to take the pole 
position. The times are fixed at the beginning of the session, so you won't 
have to worry about someone besting your time. On Champion difficulty, if 
your time is not within 107% of the pole position time, you will not be 
allowed to start the race.

On the race day, there is a short warm-up before the race starts. Same rules 
as practice apply.

Finally, there is the race. You start on the grid in the position you 
qualified in. Above the car, five lights will illuminate, one by one, 
separated by one second each. After approximately three seconds, the lights 
will go off, an air horn will sound, and this signals the start of the race.

Occasionally, you may see a flag waving on the left side of your screen. 
These are what the colours mean:
     Yellow - Passing is not permitted in this area, slow down.
     Green - End of the caution zone (shown at the end of a yellow flag 
area)
     Red - The race has been stopped due to a major incident.
     Black/white divided - A warning flag, shown if you have tried to run 
across a chicane or pass a car under a yellow flag in the intent of gaining 
position. Eight of these in Rookie or Professional and you are given a black 
flag, four of them must be shown in Champion mode.
     Black - You have been disqualified from the race (also shown if you 
have a severe accident and your car is disabled and unable to continue the 
race).
     Chequered black and white - Signals that the race will end when you 
cross the finish line on this lap.

The information on the bottom of your screen corresponds to current 
information. Here's an example:

  __________________________________________________________
|                              _______                     |
|  M. SCHUMACHER (5)   A      |   __  |      0:32.63  D    |
|                             |     | |                    |
|  FERRARI (G)                |     | |                    |
|                B            |     | |  C                 |
|                             |_______|                    |
|__________________________________________________________|

A - Shows the name of the driver that you are currently using, and the 
driver number. In this case, the player here is using Michael Schumacher, 
who has driver number 5.

B - Shows the name of the team that you are currently using, and the tires 
that they use (G stands for Goodyear brand, B stands for Bridgestone brand. 
There is no performance difference between the two.) In this case, the 
player here is on the Ferrari team, which uses Goodyear tires.

C - Shows your current ranking in the race. In this case, the player is in 
seventh place.

D - Shows your current lap time. In this case, the player is 32.63 seconds 
into the lap.

This changes regularily, showing the gaps between you and the next player up 
the road, for example. If you're in first place, you'll just hear your pit 
crew saying, "Frentzen is fifteen seconds behind you" or something like that 
- the screen won't change. In qualifying and practice, as you pass each 
split time, it shows the split time and compares it to the split times of 
the lap that earned pole position. When you go across the start/finish line 
it shows the position that you now stand in, your final lap time, and how 
much you were behind the first place time.

=============
4. RACE SETUP
=============

Your setup for a race is all condensed into the Paddock Computer. Believe it 
or not, it's actually a somewhat scaled-down version of actual F1 setup and 
it's not as precise, but it's certainly sufficient for the purpose. Here are 
the categories of race setup, and what they do:

Front Wing - (10 to 40 degrees) - The front wing angle determines the 
aerodynamic efficiency of your car. The lower the number, the more efficient 
the aerodynamics are - and therefore, the faster the car will be. If the 
number is higher, the aerodynamics will be less efficient, and therefore the 
car will be slower. However, the car will be more difficult to steer through 
the corners, if the wing angle is less. You want to have a lower wing angle 
for circuits like Hockenheim and higher wing angles for circuits like the 
Hungaroring.

Rear Wing - (10 to 40 degrees) - The rear wing angle, like the front wing 
angle, determines the aerodynamic efficiency of your car. The same as "Front 
Wing" applies here. Note that if the front wing angle is higher than the 
rear wing angle, the car will oversteer. Likewise, if the rear wing angle is 
higher than the front wing angle, the car will understeer. You can change 
this as you want.

Fuel - (5 to 100 percent) - The fuel in your car, believe it or not, is very 
important in deciding how many times you will come into the pits. The more 
fuel that is in your car, the longer that your car will be able to stay on 
your track before having to go into the pits. At the beginning of the race, 
the car will have more sluggish acceleration, but as the fuel load lightens 
the acceleration starts to improve. A full fuel tank will get you near the 
end of the race. Pit strategy is your call. You may want to go for a light 
load at first to get ahead of the pack, then make a stop with plenty of fuel 
to take you to the end of the race.

Tires - (Soft & hard slicks, intermediates, rain and heavy rain tires) - 
Tire choice is another very important decision. The easiest way to break it 
down is the wear. If rain is looking likely or it is raining, you may want 
to opt for the rain or heavy rain tires. Dry weather will call for the soft 
or hard slicks. If conditions are variable, you might want to use the 
intermediate tires. Soft slicks break down sooner than hard slicks, but are 
faster. The same applies for intermediates, rain tires, and heavy rain.

Gear Ratios - (Low, semi-low, medium, semi-high, high) - The gear ratios 
will affect how often you have to shift up. Unfortunately, like in some 
other racing games, you can't adjust gear ratios precisely. Lower gear 
ratios are good for low-speed tracks like Monaco, but be careful, because 
you'll hit top speed and damage your gearbox easily. On the other hand, 
higher gear ratios are better for high-speed circuits.

Suspension - (Soft, medium soft, medium, medium hard, hard) - Suspension has 
an effect on how much punishment your car can take. Harder suspension will 
allow your car to go a little bit faster, but it will get damaged more 
easily. On the other hand, softer suspension is a little bit slower, but 
takes a little bit more punishment.

Steering Sensitivity - (14 to 28 degrees) - Steering sensitivity determines 
how sensitive your car is to steering. For tight turns, you might want to go 
with a larger steering sensitivity. For turns which are mostly sweeping, go 
for a smaller steering sensitivity. Be careful, however. If you get this 
wrong, your car may want to understeer (not want to turn as well as you want 
it to), or oversteer (turn too much, turning the car into the inside wall or 
getting it to turn the wrong way backwards into the outside wall).

-=-=-=-=-=-=-= OTHER OPTIONS =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

You can select some other options, but not in the Paddock Computer: you have 
to set it up on the menu.

Grid position (Exhibition mode only) - (1st to 22nd) - When you go into 
Exhibition mode, you can set the grid position you want to go to. You can 
choose to make it easy for yourself and start in first, or give yourself a 
challenge and start from the back of the pack. Since you can't qualify in 
Exhibition mode, this is the only option you have to set your grid position.

97 Events - (On/Off) - If you turn 97 Events on, the cars will be lined up 
on the grid in the same way that they were for the actual race during the 
season. They will go out of the race at the exact same time, they will be 
the exact same way. Only you can change the outcome of what happens, as if 
you qualify 15th when the driver you chose qualified 5th, the game will 
adjust accordingly and move everyone that is advantaged by the change up one 
position.

Damage - (On/Off) - If you turn this on, running into a wall, into another 
car, or revving your engine too high, will cause damage to your car. In the 
race screen, there are six indicators, each indicating different sectional 
areas of the car:
    - SUS - Suspension
    - TYR - Tires
    - AER - Aerodynamics (wings, etc.)
    - GER - Gearbox mechanism
    - ENG - Engine
    - FUL - Fuel
As they become more damaged or more in need to be looked after in the pit, a 
red indicator comes on next to the appropriate section of the car. As the 
damage becomes more severe, the indicator becomes brighter. And if the 
damage requires an imminent stop in the pits, it will flash between bright 
and dim. (Note: Tires and fuel indicate wear and current fuel level, 
respectively.) Suspension is usually first to get damaged, immediately 
followed by aerodynamics and the engine in an accident.

Pit In - (On/Off) - If you turn this on, you will have to worry about tire 
wear and fuel. Leave it off if you want to stay on the track all the time 
and not worry about stops. This emphasizes pit strategy quite a bit. In a 
future version, I'll have some pit strategies for you.

Flags - (On/Off) - If you check above, you can see that flags are shown. The 
flags are only shown if you have this method on (the only flags that are 
always shown, regardless of whether this mode is on or off, are the black 
flag and the chequered flag). Turn this on if you want to play fair. If you 
want to break the rules all the time and not be penalized, keep this off.

Acceleration/Braking Assist - (On/Off) - When you select your driver, if you 
select Rookie mode, this option will become available to you. If you turn it 
on, the computer will select the optimum places to start accelerating and 
the braking points, and do all that work for you. All you have to worry 
about is steering. Turn it off, on the other hand, and the A and B buttons 
are under your control. Keeping it off is the best idea, as staying with 
this mode will not give you much of an advantage.

Gears (Automatic/Manual) - As this is a racing game, you can shift up or 
shift down appropriately. If you want, you can leave this off and let the 
computer shift for you automatically when you reach maximum revs in each 
gear. If you want control of shifting, go to manual transmission and use the 
Z and R buttons to do the shifting for you. Get to manual as soon as 
possible. It takes a while, but eventually you get into a shifting rhythm, 
and it helps you win. Trust me. ;)

Distance (4/8/16/Half/Full) - Control the distance that you want to race. 
Four laps is the shortest distance, but it won't allow you much time to get 
a jump on the field if you're starting in last place, for example. The full 
race distance (the number of laps that actual Formula 1 racers race on that 
track, which is the lowest number of laps that total over 305 km) may give 
you more time, but it'll take up quite a large block of your time, one hour 
and fifteen minutes at the least. If you don't pause the game, then the 
experience you're getting is really similar to F1.

====================
5. TEAMS AND DRIVERS
====================

As all the drivers and teams are roughly equal in performance in this game, 
there are a few things you might want to note for each team:

Ferrari - Has seven speeds instead of six, therefore you'll have to shift up 
more often.

Stewart and Minardi - Both are powered by V8 engines instead of the regular 
V10, so you might want to question using these cars.

Jordan - Has seven speeds instead of six, and I also consider it to be the 
best cornering vehicle. It takes the curves really well, in my opinion. This 
is my preference to use (either Ralf Schumacher or Fisichella).

===========
6. CIRCUITS
===========

Round 1 - Australia (Albert Park)

Round 2 - Brazil (Interlagos)

Brazil is another one of the tough circuits on the F1 calendar. The first 
corner (the Senna chicane) is quite tough to master, because it banks 
heavily on the left turn, but you have to get right next to the retaining 
wall on the left-hand side. It can very easily fool you. Then, there's a 
right turn directly after that. Take it wrong and you go right off into the 
gravel. After a few more turns, you're in the hairpin section, which 
consists of several 180-degree turns (be careful not to lock up your brakes 
when braking for the turns). The final part of the circuit is a banked 
section that leads right to the start/finish line. Get behind another car 
and gradually dive in and out of
their slipstream, you'll need the tow.

Round 3 - Argentina (Buenos Aires)

Argentina, in my opinion, is the most difficult circuit that you're ever 
going to race. The corners can get extremely nasty, and this circuit really 
separates the pros from the duds. It's especially obvious in Champion mode 
where you have to stick to the racing line like glue if you want to have a 
shot at winning. That's my strategy. Take the corners as carefully as 
possible, as you may end up getting surprised and overshooting the end of 
the corner and going into the grass or gravel.

Round 4 - San Marino (Imola)

This is a difficult track, mainly because it's so easy to make a mistake. 
One of the first turns on the track can almost be taken completely flat-out, 
which is unusual for a chicane turn (their objective is to slow you down). 
There are a lot of off-camber corners on the circuit that turn left but 
slope to your right, and if you make a small error it can cost you quite a 
bit. A chicane in the middle of the course causes you to slow down quite a 
bit, otherwise you crash into the wall on the right side of the course. 
Generally, you want to pour it on in some areas, but be a little bit more 
cautious in other sections of the course.

Round 5 - Monaco (Monte Carlo)

The Monaco circuit is the slowest one on the calendar, which means you want 
to keep your wing angle high and the fuel high, plus you have to keep the 
gear ratios low. There are only two areas where you really get to pour on 
the speed: the Beau Rivage uphill rise, and the tunnel. On all the other 
parts of the circuit, there's just a lot of Armco barrier. Try to keep away 
from the Armco and on the track, otherwise you'll probably sustain a lot of 
damage to your car and take you out in a hurry. And since it's so hard to 
pass, in Grand Prix mode, you really should try to qualify near the front of 
the grid and see if the cars in front of you retire.

Round 6 - Spain (Barcelona)

This course has the longest straight in F1, and it's the front straight. The 
remainder of the turns are mainly sweeping, and the hairpins are a lot 
slower. On some curves you can just lift off a little and then go flat-out, 
others you have to ease off the throttle, go to the outside, go back to the 
inside, and complete the turn. The first couple of turns after the first 
chicane are a prime example of this. They seem to last forever, but you have 
to hit both of the turn apexes, otherwise you run off onto the gravel.

Round 7 - Canada (Montreal)

Canada is a very difficult circuit, because the straights are very long and 
you're going to have to hit the brakes to get around the chicane turns, not 
to mention the low-speed hairpin turns at each end of the course. After the 
first hairpin (the Senna hairpin), you'll learn about the stop-and-go nature 
of the Canadian track. The truth is, it's just two long straights separated 
by two hairpin turns, broken by the occasional chicane. Most of the chicanes 
should be taken in third gear, with the exception of the second one after 
the Senna turn, which requires second gear. Try to go with an average setup 
with some emphasis on brakes.

Round 8 - France (Magny-Cours)

Like Canada, France is very much stop-and-go style. It's mainly several 
straights that seem to be connected by several hairpin turns. This means you 
want to go for speed. There's only one area that you might not get the 
opportunity to go all-out and that's the final chicane and right turn before 
the start/finish line. Go for speed at around 15 to 20 degrees, and you can 
take some of the turns flat-out. After the slowest curve on the track, the 
chicane that immediately follows is a flat-out one. But if you don't feel 
that you can go through it, you don't have to.

Round 9 - Britain (Silverstone)

It's difficult to determine whether this circuit can be called high-speed or 
low-speed because it has a little bit of everything. For example, the first 
few turns are reasonably fast, but after a little while you start to get 
some slower turns. The last few hairpin turns - left, and then right - are 
quite difficult because you might think that the turn is ending when in 
fact, it is not. Expect a lot of wear and tear on the tires, especially if 
you're racing on Professional. If you put soft slicks on, you'll probably be 
making three stops instead of two if you go with them for the whole race.

Round 10 - Germany (Hockenheim)

One of the high-speed circuits on the Formula 1 calendar, the Hockenheim 
circuit is situated in the forest, for the most part, and the speed runs 
high on each of the extremely long straights. They are all broken by 
chicanes, so don't expect to be running at full throttle for all of the lap. 
Be careful not to run at full revs (approximately 350 km/h, 230 MPH) for too 
long. The stadium section is the most difficult, because then the circuit is 
slower and, since you'll most likely be running a high-speed setup, it'll be 
difficult to take the turns.

Round 11 - Hungary (Hungaroring)

The Hungarian circuit is one of the slower ones on the calendar, but it 
certainly does not feel slow. As a matter of fact, it's absolutely insane. 
If you want to do well on this track you're going to have be careful. The 
first turn is most likely the most difficult, it is a blind curve and gets 
gradually sharper towards the end, so expect it coming and exercise caution. 
The hairpin turns are the worst, though. Try not to brake too fast and wear 
out the tires. Some curves, however, you can take flat out. If you see the 
chance to gun past a few cars if you can take a turn faster than them, floor 
it. You probably won't get another chance for a little while. A 30 to 35 
degree wing angle will work best, but try not to hit maximum revs too often. 
Damon Hill learned this the hard way when his gearbox broke at this track, 
leaving him in second gear and taking away the lead that he had at the time, 
he eventually finished second.

Round 12 - Belgium (Spa-Francorchamps)

Spa-Francorchamps is a circuit where you have to be extremely sure of 
yourself if you want to get past other cars. There are not very many passing 
opportunities on the track, even though you have several long straights to 
get into another car's slipstream, accelerate, and try to get past. However, 
that strategy doesn't really work here. The best places you will get to pass 
are the start/finish straight, and into and out of the first turn. If you 
want to pass anywhere else, you're going to have to have a lot of guts. It's 
especially hard trying to pass the Williams driver or Michael Schumacher. 
They put up a major fight. A 20-20 setup for wing angles and semi-high gear 
ratios is, for the most part, the best way to go.

Round 13 - Italy (Monza)

This is the ultimate high-speed track. If you're looking for true speed, 
this circuit is for you. However, this is a very difficult track for 
passing. You don't have too much of a speed advantage on most of the 
straights (with the exception of the straight leading up to the final turn 
and the start/finish line). The chicanes don't create too many passing 
opportunities either. They are extremely tight. But when you're in the lead, 
you want to take them as fast as possible, so stay to the outside, cut 
across, then repeat. It's especially difficult at the second chicane after 
the start/finish. Have a major speed setup. You'll need all the velocity you 
can get.

Round 14 - Austria (A1-Ring)

Austria is a tough (albeit very simple) circuit, but extremely hilly. The 
first couple of turns are sharp and uphill. There's very little run-off on 
these turns at the exit, so try to stay on the track and stop cutting the 
grass. The middle section is just as difficult to stay on the track...face 
it - try to stay on the track and you might just have a shot at winning! You 
do, however, have plenty of opportunities to pass, because the computer 
players tend to get into traffic jams at the first two corners, especially 
on lap one. Keep out of the way and you can just breeze by and gain a lot of 
ground.

Round 15 - Luxembourg (Nurburgring)

The Luxembourg track is no real challenge, it might be impressive, but it's 
not all that difficult. There are two hairpin turns on the track, both are 
all right, but on the second one (the one where you see the electronic 
results tower), be careful not to go off the track. As for the rest of the 
circuit, it's just several kinks. It's certainly not simple, but the chicane 
towards the end of the track may become difficult. Believe it or not, you 
can actually take it flat-out. You can easily damage your car if you take it 
wrong, though.

Round 16 - Japan (Suzuka)

Suzuka, Japan is an extremely difficult circuit, and has plenty of nasty 
kinks waiting to spoil you. This is not an easy circuit, it is very hard to 
get a setup and it seems as if the computer is always faster than you. What 
you want to do is try to find a way through the turn sequence after the 
start/finish line and ends at the underpass. If you have a low steering 
sensitivity and/or your tires are getting worn out, it will be hard to be 
able to get through without running off onto the gravel. And you don't want 
to do that. So go for a high steering sensitivity. After the underpass, you 
want to be careful at the spoon curve, which may catch you out. From there 
on, it's easy going.

Round 17 - Europe (Jerez)

It's the championship showdown, and you couldn't ask for a stranger place to 
hold it. The European track is one that does not lean towards high speeds or 
slow corners. There are three long straights that allow you to hit high 
speeds, but all the same, there is a section of the track that consists of 
several complicated turns. Because most of the time you are most likely 
going to be going for speed, that's what you should go for - a speed setup, 
but all the same, 15 to 20 degrees will most likely do the trick for wing 
angles.

=============
7. STRATEGIES
=============

Burning out is a big problem, and you especially don't want to burn out at 
the start on Grand Prix mode. It can, and may, happen, sometimes, but there 
really is no reason to burn out as the starting sequence is the same at 
every start and it is very easy to learn. It does happen, though, and in 
case it does, the most important thing to remember is to GET OFF THE 
THROTTLE. You want to do that as soon as possible before cars start to 
overtake you and you end up at the back of the grid. So anyway, get off the 
gas for about a second, then start accelerating again. Your car should get 
better traction and accelerate faster.

Slipstreaming is a very handy technique that works quite well to pass cars 
on very long straights (Germany, Italy, Canada). To get it going, get 
directly behind another car. Your car will start to accelerate a lot faster 
and you'll most likely find yourself pulling up behind the car in front of 
you. This is a great passing opportunity, but be careful. The risk is 
hitting top revs, after which you can't go any faster and continuous 
operation at those RPMs will cause damage.

On Rookie mode, you don't have to worry about acceleration and braking. On 
Professional mode, you can take the turns faster than a real F1 driver would 
take them. But on Champion, the turning physics resemble an F1 car quite 
well. That means you can't follow the same ways that you did before - your 
driving style will have to change quite a bit. First of all, stick to the 
racing line like glue. That's how you get the fast times. Stray one inch off 
of it and the chances are you're gonna screw up. Second of all, slow down at 
most of the curves that you took flat-out before. The steering is very 
exaggerated at high speed. You could very well make an error and slam right 
into the retaining wall. That damages your car quite severely, if it doesn't 
disable it.

Be careful when lapping traffic! What this means is if you're passing a car 
that's a lot slower, but not for position - they don't always move out of 
the way and let you through, but don't suddenly duck out from behind. If you 
make a mistake you'll ride right into the back of the other car. If the 
speed differential is not major, you might not have any major damage. On the 
other hand, if the other car is just crawling around the track, expect a lot 
of flying parts.

If you have "pit in" on, you really have to decide what pit strategy you 
want to use. A two-stop strategy is usually the norm and you usually have to 
put hard or soft tires on with a medium load of fuel. Three stops is useful 
if you want to gain a lot of ground in each of your stints, where you will 
need soft tires and a light fuel load. Then, there's just one stop, where 
you want hard tires and lots of fuel. You'll be able to stay out on the 
track longer and get a jump on anyone who is two-stopping, but you won't be 
able to make up much ground on the track. Of course, you can combine any of 
the above and stop early, gain a lot of ground, fuel for close to the end of 
the race, keep your lead, then stop again for just enough fuel to last you 
to the end. If you're still confused about this, just e-mail me and I'll 
tell you. I might even devote a whole section of this guide to pit strategy, 
it's so important, because it can make or break your race.

Last but not least: you get some problems at some of the narrower chicanes. 
The final turn sequence at Belgium, the first two chicanes at Italy, both 
cause problems, as they are extremely narrow and easily damage your car if 
you ride up over the curbs. So be cautious.

=================
8. CHALLENGE MODE
=================

Coming soon...

======
9. END
======

This FAQ is copyright (C) 2001 by Jordan Stopciati. (Please read the "Legal 
Stuff" section for a full disclaimer and my personal plagiarism/etc. 
policy.)

I'd like to thank you for reading this, I really appreciate it (as I make no 
money from writing video game FAQs, your support is pretty much the only way 
I get paid. But it does just as well as money!) Other FAQs for Excitebike 
64, Super Mario 64, and San Francisco Rush 2049 are currently online on 
GameFAQs.com. The following people must be credited:

- Everyone on the F-1 World Grand Prix game board on GameFAQs (a total of 
four people, including myself... :P), without their support, this project 
would not have been possible.
- Jeff "CJayC" Veasey, who maintains an awesome site and takes the time to 
post my FAQs without complaining. Not many people can lay claim to that.
- Paradigm Entertainment and Video System, for creating F-1 World Grand 
Prix.
- Myself, I wrote this thing.
- Errr...Microsoft, for developing WordPad and giving me a text editor that 
doesn't give me hell. Without them, this wouldn't be possible either.
- You, the reader.

You can contact me with any strategies, comments, tips, etc. for F1WGP, or 
for any of my FAQs in general, by contacting me at the following e-mail 
address:

                js_sstar64@hotmail.com

Chain letters, hate mail, or anything that else I determine to be a waste of 
the 2 MB space that I get for this account, will be deleted without a second 
thought. You have been warned.

Once again, thanks for reading. This concludes the F-1 World Grand Prix FAQ 
for N64.

See you on the track...

=== END DOCUMENT ===
